Snakes, fascinating and mysterious, thrive with proper care. But just like any other pet, they can have their “off” days. Beware, your serpentine companion is rather good at hiding illness—making it tough to spot any abnormal behavior. Plus, they’re sensitive to seasonal changes, and cooler weather may impact their appetite and energy levels.

One of the most common signs of a health issue is when your pet decides to go on a hunger strike. Before slithering to conclusions, consider the age of your snake. Younger, growing snakes may require more food and more frequent feedings than older snakes.

Remember that VEG ER for Pets vet hospital is open 24 hours if you need emergency care for your pet snake. Now, let’s try and uncoil some facts on why your snake isn’t eating.

Common reasons why snakes won't eat

1. Snakes can be picky eaters

While some snakes are adaptable with their diet, others may only want what they typically eat in the wild. Here are a few pointers to help:

• Know their normal diet - Use a veterinarian-approved resource, such as Reptile Magazine to find the ideal diet for your snake

• Switch the prey item

• Switch up the color of prey (e.g., white to brown mice)

• Try different type of prey (e.g., mice instead of rat pup)

• Decrease stress

• Do not watch after placing the prey with your snake (even snakes need some me-time!)

• Do not handle just before/after eating

• Consider feeding in a separate feeding container

• Time of day - Many snakes are nocturnal hunters so feeding at night may help

IMPORTANT: Never feed a captive snake live prey unless the prey is totally incapable of biting and injuring the snake.

If your snake needs emergency care, VEG ER for Pets is open 24/7 to help. At VEG, you can stay with your pet all throughout your visit.

2. Improper snake habitat can tip the scales

In addition to their diet, it’s essential that a snake’s environment is as similar to their natural habitat as possible. Any environmental deficiency or imbalance could stress out your rad reptile, causing it to give meals a hard pass. Below are some things you can do to make sure your snake’s spot is spot-on.

Snakes aren’t big fans of the cold and low humidity is especially hard on their respiratory system. Every reptile species has an ideal Preferred Optimal Temperature Zone (POTZ). When a snake is below its POTZ, the body system slows, so it’s an important thing for all snake parents to keep in mind. For most snakes, the range is 75–90°F with 50–70% humidity, but check with your primary care vet to get the specifics for your snake’s species. A good rule of thumb is if any area of your scaled sidekick’s enclosure is below 70°F, it’s too cold for them.

An easy way to keep things cozy is by adding heat lamps into your snake’s enclosure. If you already have heat lamps, consider swapping out the bulbs for ones with a higher wattage. Another way to increase environmental temperature is with heat tape and external-to-the-enclosure heating pads. Never use heat rocks in the enclosure, as it is common for snakes to burn themselves on those devices.

Believe it or not, your coiled comrade wants a place they can call home as much as you do, and what you put on the floor of their enclosure matters. Choose substrate materials that are nontoxic, nonabrasive, disposable, and low-cost, so the enclosure is safe for your snake and easy to keep clean. 

Some recommended substrates for snakes include:

• Recycled paper bedding

• Newspaper

• Aspen shavings

• Cypress mulch

• Peat moss

• Potting soil

• Ground walnut shells

• Alfalfa pellets

• Artificial turf

You want to choose materials that best mimic your snake’s natural habitat, that are not easily ingested, and that are least likely to retain moisture, which can support the growth of mold and bacteria. Consider perches, hiding spots, or water mimicking nature to encourage normal eating behavior. Discuss specific needs of your snake with a reptile veterinarian, as prey, supplements, and husbandry requirements vary by species.

Also important for the health and well-being of your snake are daily cycles of daylight and darkness (Snakes—they’re just like us!). For most snakes, that means around 12 hours of white light and 12 hours of darkness per day. Double-check with a reptile vet to get the skinny on the specific light requirements for your snake’s species.

3. Snake has infection called mouth rot

As we mentioned above, an imbalance in your snake’s environment can lead to stress, which may lead to illness over time. Signs of disease are very slow to develop, often taking weeks or months to show. Look for decreased food intake, dehydration, and weight loss. 

Your snake may not want to admit this out loud, but they might have infectious stomatitis aka “mouth rot.” This infection is often caused by other problems and should be treated immediately.

Signs of mouth rot:

• Crusts or bleeding from the mouth

• Loss of appetite

• Weight loss

To best prevent snake mouth rot:

• Feed your snake with only dead, frozen then thawed prey. Live prey can put up a fight and scratch and injure your snake, leading to infection.

• Feed only appropriate-sized prey. If the prey is too big, your snake may not be able to consume it.

• Provide adequate temperature and humidity. This helps in keeping your snake’s immune system healthy.

If your wriggling pal has lost their appetite and has been sneezing, has eye, mouth, or nasal discharge, and is breathing through their mouth, they may have a respiratory illness. If you suspect that your snake has a respiratory illness, call or visit your local VEG emergency vet hospital immediately.

So your snake isn’t eating AND is experiencing symptoms like diarrhea, regurgitation, a distended midsection, breathing difficulties, weight loss, or anemia? They may have parasites. Don’t fret, though—parasites are common in snakes, and their presence is often detected in an annual physical exam or fecal screening. If you think your snake may be dealing with an overpopulation of parasites, don’t wait for their annual physical; visit your nearest VEG location to get them checked out.

When you notice your snake has not been chowing down at mealtime as usual, it’s possible they have ingested something they are unable to digest, which has led to an obstruction. If your snake has not defecated for a day or more after eating, it’s possible that they are not receiving enough moisture in their enclosure, which may have caused an impaction. Twice-daily warm baths lasting 15–20 minutes can help ease impactions, but in the event of an obstruction, your snake may need to see a doctor. 

4. Snake shedding and problems with eating

Ready for a makeover? Well, snakes certainly are…multiple times a year! They routinely shed their old skin for a shiny, new one. When this occurs, the skin takes on an opaque, or “blue” tone prior to actually starting to shed, and you may find your snake does not want to eat. While it may be normal, keep an eye out for dysecdysis (abnormal shedding).

Causes for abnormal snake-skin shedding

A snake's problem in shedding skin is often due to one or more of these reasons:

• Incorrect husbandry or habitat

• Ectoparasites (mites)

• Trauma

• Underlying disease

If your snake is having trouble shedding its skin, for instance, if all of the skin is not being shed (especially around the eyes) or it does not want to eat for an extended period of time during or after a shed, bring your pet to your primary care vet or to VEG animal hospital if after hours.

5. Congrats, your snake is pregnant!

When a female snake is pregnant, you may notice a natural decrease in her appetite. This can be normal as long as she still appears to be bright and alert. But if she’s lethargic or loses 10% of her body weight, this can be cause for concern.

VEG vets aren't just medical professionals, they're pet lovers who offer life-saving care when pets need it most. Open 24/7 to treat dogs, cats, snakes, rabbits, and all pets.

When to take your pet snake to the vet

When your snake won’t eat, it is a cause for concern. But don’t get rattled. Patience, observation, and prompt action can go a long way in ensuring your scaly friend’s well-being.

Some reasons to take your snake to a vet right away:

• Prolonged anorexia (3–4+ weeks in adults, 1–2 weeks in juveniles)

• Unintentional weight loss

• Lethargy, or decreased energy/activity

• Abnormal breathing sounds or bubbles from the nose

• Sores or wounds in the mouth or on the body

• Difficulty shedding

• Any concerns you have about symptoms or husbandry

Rest assured, VEG emergency vets handles emergency and urgent care for snakes. At VEG, you’ll see a doctor right away. We’ll discuss possible reasons for the loss of appetite in your pet snake and offer recommendations for possible diagnostics and treatments to help your fave reptile feel fang-tastic again!

VEG has locations all over the country with emergency vets who are available 24/7 to help.